![]() ![]() The difference between diffraction and refraction is that refraction is the bending of a wave as it travels and propagates over different depths - diffraction needs an obstacle to force the bending of the wave. However, a good knowledge of the break can help improve the prediction. Several variables - like shoaling and refraction, tides, winds, and other bathymetric factors - can reduce the accuracy of surf forecasts for highly diffraction-influenced surf spots. The behavior of diffraction and the impact it has on surf breaks cannot be calculated with high precision. "For instance, a big northwest swell hitting the California coast would pound the west-facing areas, but south-facing breaks, like the Santa Cruz region, would be cleaner yet smaller from diffracted energy that wrapped in," explains Nathan Todd Cool, author of "The WetSand WaveCast Guide to Surf Forecasting." The waves resulting from diffraction are always weaker and smaller than before hitting the obstacle and bending.īut, oftentimes and during winter, filtering energy could be a good thing, especially with powerful long-period groundswells. Diffraction can actually transform a wave-protected shoreline into a world-class point break. In other words, it's not always bad to surf at a beach that is not directly facing the prevailing swell angle. There are several surf breaks around the world where diffraction results in spectacular, perfect-peeling waves breaking down the line for 100, 200, 300 yards or more. The obstacle will block a portion of the wave's energy, forcing it to spread into the sheltered area behind the obstruction.įor example, if a west or southwest swell reaches a south-facing surf spot with a curved shoreline, the energy of the waves will diffract - or bend - toward the protected or hidden area of the coastline. You may also find the following Physics calculators useful.Diffraction is a sudden change in the direction and intensity of waves after passing by a coastal feature or offshore obstruction. Position Velocity And Acceleration Of A Wavepoint Calculator.Intensity And Loudness Of Sound Waves Calculator.Related Physics Calculators by iCalculator Help others Learning Physics just like you Continuing learning waves - read our next physics tutorial: Types of Waves. ![]() See the Waves Calculators by iCalculator™ below.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |